Southwest National Parks Family Vacation
/I want my children to forever maintain a sense of wonder about the world. To see soaring cliffs, foaming seas, roaming wildlife, and all of the variations of rocks, dirt and trees they can dream of. I want to see these things WITH them - because I haven’t lost my sense of wonder, and there are no other people on earth I would rather share these moments with. It’s this sentiment (not a love of hiking or camping), that lead to a family vacation that included some of the most breathtaking places in the American Southwest. We spent eight days exploring Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, Grand Canyon National Park and Las Vegas. We had such a great time, I thought I would share some to-do’s, some “don’t misses”, and a few tips and tricks that will make your trip easier should you choose to adventure out west!
Our itinerary:
Day 1: Travel day/stay in Vegas
Day 2: Up early, head to Zion (stay in Springdale)
Day 3: Zion (stay in Springdale)
Day 4. Bryce Canyon, drive to Lake Powell (stay in LP AirBNB)
Day 5: Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon (stay in LP AirBNB)
Day 6: Up early to Grand Canyon, sleep in Yurt in Williams AZ
Day 7: Drive to Vegas, stay in resort
Day 8: Travel home
GETTING THERE: Most travelers to the Southwest parks loop come in via Las Vegas or Flagstaff. We chose Vegas because airline tickets were cheaper and we had a better selection of rental cars. There are a number of accomadations here as well - from AirBnb to resorts, depending on your preference.
To- Do: Read the fine print on hotel bookings - most hotels require a $45 + daily resort fee.
Pro tip: Rent an SUV. While the travel time between each park isn’t long (2-3 hours on average), it is nice to have the room and the extra horsepower for the terrain. You will need 4 wheel drive if you intend on driving to the beach at Lake Powell.
Canyon Overlook Trail is a must do at Zion!
ZION NATIONAL PARK: Zion has soaring red and white cliffs, a crystal clear river at the bottom of the canyon and is filled with a variety of ecosystems and wildlife. It has something for every level of adventurer - from a paved riverwalk trail to the famous Angel’s Landing for the thrill seeker (even the YouTube videos of this hike make me nervous!).
Zion is located on the edge of Springdale Utah, where we stayed for 2 nights. Zion has increased in popularity over the last few years so the city runs a free shuttle from ten or so stops to the entrance of the park. There isn’t usually parking available in Zion NP (unless you are there at 5 am), so it’s easiest to leave your car at your hotel and walk to the city shuttle stop.
ZION TO- DO:
Zion utilizes an in park shuttle to drop you off a trailheads and scenic spots. Currently you must purchase a ticket online a month in advance (learn more here), or stand in line to grab a “walk up” ticket after 3pm. We got in line at 2 pm each day and had no problem getting tickets - but reserving them online would be preferred.
You MUST use the shuttle (March through September) to get to most of Zion NP. Hiking from the visitor center to the Temple of Sinawava (start of the Narrows hike and the Riverside walk paved trail) is eight miles. You want to use the shuttle :)
Two of our favorite hikes with kids were the Riverside walk trail (paved) and the Lower Emerald Pool trail (also paved). Gorgeous cliffs tower above, and you walk alongside the clear blue river. Our kids loved these trails and they were fairly easy.
Use one morning of your time at Zion to drive in to the park. Use the vehicle entrance and take the Zion Mt. Caramel Tunnel (breathtaking views as you wind up to the entrance) . Just outside the tunnel is the entrance to the Canyon Overlook Trail. By far our favorite hike of the park (walking poles were helpful, but not needed!) with views at the end that will take your breath away.
PRO TIPS:
March - September is the most crowded, but also gives you access to the most services. This includes bathrooms and water bottle refill stations at each of the stops (so helpful hiking with kids!)
You can rent walking sticks at Zion outfitters just outside the park - but they are heavy, tall, wooden sticks. We borrowed lightweight ones from friends, checked them in our luggage and they were so helpful (note: a rental was about the same price as a set. We each used one pole so a family of four could buy two sets and have all you need)
Lodging is expensive and fills up quickly. We stayed at a La Quinta that served breakfast, and packed lunches in our bags to help offset the cost. Many site suggest reservations 9-12 months in advance
Eat at Oscars in Springdale - it was delicious and gluten friendly!
BRYCE CANYON: The drive from Zion to Bryce is about three hours, thanks to a shortcut through the Zion Mt. Caramel tunnel (remember - we used this from our day 2 hikes in Zion to access the Canyon Ridge trial). Bryce Canyon is located in Bryce City, Utah and is unlike anywhere else I have ever been. Rock formations known as hoodoos cover the canyon and give you a once in a lifetime hiking experience. We parked in town at Ruby’s Inn, did some shopping and ate lunch, and then headed into the park via car - although you can use a free shuttle from Ruby’s to the park if you wish.
BRYCE TO DO:
Drive into Bryce and head to Rainbow point. This is only accessible by car - the in park shuttle only allows you to access the first 5 stops. Driving gives you a number of other stops/lookout points and takes you up a bit higher.
Bryce has as variety of trails and we chose the Navajo loop trail, descending via Wall Street and coming up out of the canyon via Two Bridges. The switchbacks are steep and there were times we had to take it very slow - the walking sticks were a must here!
Despite the steepness, we loved the narrow walls of Wall Street, the wooded terrain in the canyon, and saw the famed “Thor’s Hammer” rock formation on the way out.
PRO - TIPS:
Trails are marked along the canyon rim, but there is only one sign at the bottom of the Navajo loop trail. There will likely be other travelers with you, but keep your map handy (they are free when you enter the park)
If you want to stay the night in Bryce City, Ruby’s Inn is the place to be! It’s super cute, western themed and is also the hub for coordinating horse rides into the canyon and other excursions.
My body does’t love higher elevations, so we chose to explore the canyon and head out later in the afternoon to Lake Powell ,Arizona - this gave us access to more AirBNB options (read: a kitchen the ability to do laundry!!) and a number of restaurants. We loved the one of a kind beauty at Bryce and would go back in a heartbeat!
LAKE POWELL: Lake Powell is the second largest man made reservoir in the US - the first being Lake Mead via Hoover Dam. Lake Powell was described as touristy in all of our online searches, so I was imagining something like the Lake of the Ozarks. After having visited I can see how it was described as touristy in comparison to the remote areas surrounding it - but all in all it was a quiet town with a few grocery stores and a number of places to eat.
LAKE POWELL TO DO:
The Horseshoe Bend viewing area is just outside of town and costs $10 to park. There are some bathrooms and a paved walking trail to get to the edge of the canyon. There is a fenced area that allows you to get close to the edge, however there is plenty of rim that is NOT fenced (be careful!). This was a short, fun outing that we enjoyed.
Lake Powell can be accessed via Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. If you use a National Parks pass you can enter for free (otherwise it’s $30) and have access to the beach area. We had a great time playing in the cold, clear water - it was relaxing and fun. You must have four wheel drive if you plan on driving to the lower plateaus of the beach area - even then I would suggest staying on the higher area with packed sand if you don’t want to end up stuck (but that’s a whole other post for another day!). You can still access the beach area via a short walk if you don’t have four wheel drive.
Antelope Canyon is a gorgeous slot canyon in this area that we had planned on visiting, but that was closed due to Covid. You can only enter the canyon via a touring company or a five mile kayak trip + hike - which we opted out of with the kids. This is on our bucket list someday when we are in the region again!
GRAND CANYON: We left the Lake Powell area the next day bright and early at five a.m. We drove to Williams, AZ where we boarded the Grand Canyon Railway train to a train ride into the Grand Canyon. We had already decided that we wouldn’t be hiking much there, aside from the rim trail along the top. The trails at the Grand Canyon are a little steeper that the previous ones we had hiked, and it’s at a much higher elevation. We enjoyed the historic sites throughout the park, the gift shops and eateries and the gorgeous views of the rim trail!
GRAND CANYON TO DO:
Enjoy the sites from the Rim trail
Learn the history of the Grand Canyon and enjoy shops and buildings that have been there for over 100 years
Hike the famous Bright Angel trail. Hiking poles are a must, and you can travel down into the canyon as far as you would like - just remember you have to come back out!
There is a tram system within the park, but there are often long lines. You can see all of Grand Canyon village with a bit of walking, and it was worth it to avoid the lines. If you stay within the park it’s worth it to take the scenic tram routes without time restraints
Take the Grand Canyon railway for direct access into the train depot of the park. No waiting in line to get in or to park - but you do have a shorter time at the park in general. Perfect option if you want a relaxing drive in and to learn historical information along the way - but probably not an ideal option if you want the entire day to hike or stay into the evening.
PRO - TIPS:
Lodging around the Grand Canyon is scarce. If staying in the park make your reservations about a year in advance. Otherwise, nearby Williams is a cute town that sits along historic route sixty six (the move Cars is loosely based around this community!). We ended up staying at a nearby Airbnb Yurt that was quite the experience!
Grand Canyon National Park is Dark Sky Certified - meaning there is little light pollution, so its’ great for stargazing! Download a stargazing app for easy constellation hunting, and visit at the end of July for the chance to see the Milky Way.
We ended our day at the Grand Canyon with a night of “glamping” in a yurt. I use the term “glamping” very loosely here! Be sure to check your listing and send a message to confirm the bathroom situation if that is important to you (it is to me!) and be aware that the temps at night get down into the thirties - even in the summer. We had a great time but weren’t one bit sad to pack up our things and head back to civilization the next morning!
As we drove from Williams, AZ back to Las Vegas, we stopped off to see Hoover Dam. It is an incredible work of architecture and we enjoyed our time there before being back in the lights and action of Las Vegas. Our las night we stayed in the Venetian resort and it was a delight - certainly a vastly different experience than our yurt the night before. Each of the larger resorts in Vegas contain dozens of shops and restaurants within the hotel itself. We were able to eat, shop and swim without ever having to leave our hotel!
This was certainly the trip of a lifetime, and I’m so thankful we had the opportunity to do it together. We were blown away by the gorgeous scenery, loved trying new things with our kids and would absolutely go back. We have been bitten by the National Park bug and are already dreaming of where we can go next!
